Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Made in Italy, (Part 3)

To recap Part 1 and 2 of my birth story I will hit on the points that differ the most from having a baby in America. First, you are not given a gown at prenatal check-ups. Second, epidurals are not standard procedure. Third, hospitals are austere structures made to make you better, not comfortable. Forth, my husband would be called into the delivery room only at the actual moment of delivery. Also, of importance, this was my third pregnancy and a complete surprise. I arrived at the hospital in the middle of the night, only to find that everyone in the birthing ward had been asleep and due to my, and my spouse's, continuous knocking, we finally roused the floor 45 min. after our arrival. Read previous posts. ( Also, thanks, Mom, Deborah Vivona, for the wonderful unedited photos you left on my computer.)



2:40
To find oneself in the total care of a stranger is, to say the least, unnerving. To lack the language of your hospital is much like being a dog in a veterinary clinic, and is, to say the least, a daunting experience. So far, my adventure in Lecce's hospital of southern Italy had made me feel very much like an animal being poked and prodded, led from one room to another, not knowing what would happen next. There is already something a bit feral about having a baby, forces beyond your control taking hold of your body, so to have a gentle guide to tame your fears and hold your hand is paramount. I would have liked the partner I had chosen in marriage to have been the one to share my burden, but my leader for the night, Giuseppe, a male nurse, embodied all the characteristics you might want by your side during childbirth.

While the Italians are domesticated, some of their bookkeeping is defiantly archaic in nature. When I arrived at the hospital, my husband was sent back down to the emergency room entrance to obtain some sort of admittance paper. All paperwork done in Italy has the feeling of ancient documents, yellowed paper stamped with serious red circles and official black squares. Also, files are made in giant bound books, sometimes as much as 4 inches deep, maybe even more. Offices are usually lined far and wide in the colossal manuscripts. Appointments and records are kept like this, and I assume, hopefully, later transcribed to computer. So, I wasn’t too surprised when Giuseppe guided Pier Carlo, my husband, out the door to follow the procedure of paper passing, while he ushered me in. I bided a quick farewell and the instruction to please try and find me as soon as he was finished. We left the bags at the door because the ward was empty and we knew they would not be disturbed.

2:45
Now, I was in the hands of the staff and I would be at the mercy of nature and the very sleepy delivery ward. Led down an incredibly long, empty, fluorescent lit, and mint green corridor we entered a darkened examining room. The ostetrica arrived for the first examination. Behind an old-fashioned metal and fabric-sheeted screen, like something out of M.A.S.H, I was checked, ultrasounded, and it was concluded that I was indeed having a baby, but I was only at 2 cm and the baby hadn’t dropped. Great, I thought, it would after all be a long night, and I clutched the hope that the anesthesiologist would arrive soon and that my husband would be allowed to stay with me, although against protocol, through labor and delivery.

2:50
Next, fetal heart monitoring. Again, another darkened room, a lone machine sitting in the corner, paper-covered table. Seemingly far from delivering, I spent the next hour griped in pain every minute or so, listening to the baby’s heart. Like all the rooms in Italian hospitals, there was nothing to look at but a cracked ceiling, peeling plaster, a lone crucifix. Knowing I had nothing to fear, I tried to keep at bay all the apprehension that comes with the unknown. When would the guy with the needles come? Where was my husband? Every so often Giuseppe would pop in to check on me. Where did he keep running off to? Back to sleep perhaps, catnapping in the coffee break room on a well worn sofa, watching a black-and-white TV running fuzzy reruns of Bewitched dubbed in Italian? He would ask if I was alright, but what could I say? I continued to ask if my husband had returned, and since there must have been some sort of bureaucratic hold-up, I soon realized that if I needed to hold a hand it would have to be Giuseppe’s. At the beginning of a contraction I took to grabbing hold and squeezing down through the pain. Trying not to think about, or care, if this was in his job description. Nevertheless, he did have a calm way about him and he didn’t seem to mind. I was trying hard to keep a stoic face, a good attitude and be a team player. But, for who? Still there was only a staff of two.  
3:45
When I had done my hour on the fetal heart monitor, it must have been time for another checkup because I was led to yet another room. I recognized it as the sala parto, or delivery room. This room was much brighter lit. It was large and in the middle of the floor was the ominous delivery table, all stainless steel and robotic-looking with levers and arms and appendages poking out in every direction. We passed through a large doorway to an adjoining room and along the far wall were three tall gurneys standing at attention alongside their own machines and sentry-like carts of tools. I was guided to the first bed and helped aboard. Giuseppe brought me the nightgown from my bag that Pier must have passed him and (as I stuffed issues of modesty into my mental American suitcase) helped me dress. After checking with me for about the 100th time that I had, in fact, completed the course to have an epidural, I was assured that the anesthesiologist was on his way.

I then suggested it would be nice if my husband came back with me now, but Giuseppe politely answered that because it was likely that other women could be in the labor beds and “little dressed” it was customary to have husbands wait outside. There went that hope flying out the slightly opened window into the cold February darkness. I said I understood, but secretly wondered where these “other women” were on this particular night. Perhaps it wasn’t a matter of modesty, but an issue of Italian men wanting to sip small espressos and puff congratulatory cigars amidst their masculine equivalents, versus staying in the confines of the sterile hospice. Maybe meeting other expecting fathers and finding similarities in fishing, military careers, and other shared stories is more appealing than the outcries of a woman in labor. For that matter, as all Italians carry a chatterbox gene, I guess I have seen women in labor carry on full conversations of my-cousin-said-this and babies-must-do-that banter. So, like all of life’s milestones, having a baby, for Italians is just another occasion to get together and mingle, have a coffee, and chat.
Later, I found out that Pier had returned with the admittance papers after some emergency room, middle-of-the-night drama, but upon the hospital accepting me, and because I was, without a doubt, in labor, he had to return again to the front desk to pass another document saying that I would be staying, at long last, finally admitted to Ostetrico.

3:50
All was calm and quiet. With the check-up they must have found that I was now at 4 cm., with the baby still sitting high. Pier and I compared notes later because, again like a patient in a veterinary clinic, I was talked about, not to. My husband was greeted down the hall with the update when he returned for the last time, and he settled in for a round of Super Mario Bros. on my kids’ Nintendo DS. There was a slight smell of new cigarette smoke carried in on the crisp winter night air. Someone on-call near-by must have been roused from their nap. I imagined their Moka espresso bubbling to its termination on a white enamel hot plate, and I wondered if you were allowed coffee while in labor. I really had no idea how far along I was. The stout obstetrician, her elegantly dyed and styled hair disheveled from her earlier snooze, glasses perched delicately on the tip of her nose, then broke my water.  It was, then, as if the gates of a great horse race were opened. There was shouting. There was a stampede to rush me over to the delivery table on my wheeled bed.

4:00
There was more yelling. I tried to ask amid contractions for a little information but the Italian language was all mixed up in the word soup that was rushing around me. “Well, this is it,” Giuseppe answered. Hmm? It like maybe I will be pushing until sunrise, but with the epidural to still soon arrive, or it like maybe my husband would come in now and we would have Hollywood’s classic screaming and pushing version of childbirth. With the gurney now pulled alongside the delivery table, I next found another person or two in the jumbled dash for delivery. All eyes staring at me, they implored me to scooch over to the delivery table. “No,” I answered. Their eyes all beseeched me, “No?” Blank stares wondered why I would suddenly resist. “I have to push,” I stated. Uh-oh, I did. This really sent them in a frenzy, screaming for the others, whomever they might be, to run. “Come on,” they pleaded again. Once more I answered, “No.” They scrambled towards me, two people grabbing each a leg. Assuming position, they must have given up on the quest to move me.

A few choice words. A push. Baby crying.



4:02
I gazed upon the fat naked baby lying in a puddle of goo and first thought about how my 3 year-old would have found this hysterical. With little graphic discussion, he had intuitively figured out that babies must come out “yucky”. Like most little boys he is fascinated with ick. The staff, however, was not as impressed, and I issued a small “I’m sorry”. Still, though, I couldn’t help but find a little humor in the situation, so when my husband finally arrived, I was beaming like the Cheshire Cat.  "Whoops. It just happened." Only having completed one level of the video game, he was grinning too.  Maddalena was a surprise from the beginning, so it wasn't a shock that she would enter the world in her own unique way. 

Babies made in Italy, are, I'm sure, like babies made in other parts of the world, with squished little faces, flailing little limbs on bare elfin bodies, and prestine little souls. Their desire to be held and fed and cared for, bellowed out to the new world in their first breaths.  The package might not be as pretty, but Italian hospitals and doctors are competent and kind.  Maybe Italian bambini arrive in a world a little simpler-- no whistles and bells-- but for an event that has been going on since, literally, the beginning of mankind, what more does one need than a loving mama and papa, a waiting big sister and brother.




Friday, April 16, 2010

Made in Italy, (Part 2)




Having a baby in Italy is like going back in time to when our grandmothers had babies, or at least what I imagined it was like. Not that there are nurses in white caps running around with stacks of towels and boiling water, but hospitals are very institutional. You won't find your own private hospital room with nicely framed art work and big cozy chairs for waiting family members. You won't find your birth team made up of your spouse, parents, in-laws and cousins allowed in the delivery room to cheer you on. You will, though, get to share your hospital room, after delivery, with other women and get to experience a feeling like you're staying in a pajama-clad summer camp. You will leave all modesty at the door and more than likely also your husband.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Made in Italy (Part 1, Intro)




Winging It
I suppose almost every young girl has dreams of a big custom-detailed wedding, but I can honestly say I never sat around day-dreaming the perfect colors, flowers, or dress. A lot of my big day was planned around convenience, knowing that a week after the wedding I would be jet-setting off to a new life abroad.

Hec, you didn't even hear a grumble from me when I found out that the guys here in Italy don't save three months salary for an engagement ring. My mom and I winged everything and it turned out beautifully. It was charming and full of personality and a great farewell to friends and family. And, it was just the beginning. If anything has come as a big surprise it is child-rearing in Italy that caught me the most off-guard. Don't as little girls we all assume we will play house just as our mothers did?
So, what better way to christen this blog than to begin with a birth story. Maddalena, the third edition to our family, was a surprise pregnancy and like all unplanned events a little ad-libbing would be called for. Being my third baby here in Italy some of the shock in differences has worn off... sort of. There are things you will never really get used to. Things such as the lack of gown that they should give you at your prenatal appointments or the long lines of socialized health care to get monthly blood work. But, because a baby is going to be born no matter what you are wearing or how many lines you were held up in, like with my other pregnancies, with the support of my pilot husband, what else could I do but wing it. The news of a new baby, 3 1/2 years after the last, would need a little improvising: throw together a corner of my firstborn's room into a nursery, make do with borrowed items since we had gotten rid of baby gear, and stand-by for the incoming bambina.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Here, nor There


Diplomat that I am, if you hear me condemn Italy you will more than likely also hear me defend it... nowadays. My first years in Italy were spent comparing the differences between here and there, in the USA. Unfortunately, Italy did not always stack up to America. It was too small, too crowded, too dirty, too complicated. Where was this stereo-typed simple Italian life?! Life was boring, isolated, and difficult. After the climax of a wedding and the excitement of jet-setting off to Europe, la vita dolce was left lacking. I wanted to be there, not here, and there was no "in between".
John Steinback said, "A journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it." And boy was I wrong when I first moved here. I lost my control of the most simple tasks in life. Everything from putting gas in the car to mailing a letter to pay a bill had to be relearned, or at the very least, the language to do it all in had to be . I was forced to reconsider all things previously known. Houses aren't bought with kitchen counters and fixtures or with bedroom closets, women keep their maiden names, and air-conditioning or clothes dryers are a luxury not a necessity. I was a foreigner in my own life and there was a deep chasm between what I had always been, an artist, a student, a daughter, a sister, and who I was suddenly expected to be, an expat wife.
Now, almost 7 years down the road I realize that somewhere along the way, the line dividing here and there has blurred. I love living the life in between. I feel most alive hanging in suspense over our next move, or moving through an international airport suspended between neither here, nor there. Our travels and mini-adventures have included friends from the top of Italy all the way down to the heel of the boot, big dogs, and babies. And, even though we don't stay rooted for long, my little space between two cultures has taught me how to grow where I am planted, whether that is a tomato patch in Italy or a wind-swept plain of Oklahoma. As old habits die hard, so do old habitats and while I tried so hard in the beginning to make a lil' America among the cobble stoned streets and marble statues, along the way I have learned how to cast off all unnecessary baggage and enjoy the adventure of living in between the old world and the new.
Usually when I wake up my first morning either here or there after traveling for 24 hours with two big German Shepherds or with toddlers I have a strange groggy moment right before I open my eyes of not knowing where I am. Last year, upon returning to my American home, the confusion came in the form of another question. Not where I actually was, but where would I rather be when I opened my eyes? There is no answer for this. I am forever doomed, or blessed, to ride the fence between this life and that. Diplomatically, this blog is the story of our family's life abroad, afloat, and afar.